One of the questions most often asked by new woodworkers, and most often waffled on by experienced woodworkers in not HOW to sharpen but WHEN to sharpen.
The question of how much set to add to a hand saw is a common one for new saw sharpeners. Tooth set is a critical component to the performance of a hand saw. But how do you know if your saw has the proper amount of set?
Contrary to what many of the woodworking books and magazines would have us all believe, not all of the furniture and cabinetry of old was built using dovetails and mortise and tenon joinery.
One inconvenience with a solvent based finish like shellac is getting the brushes used to apply it thoroughly clean when you’re done. However, there is a very simple solution to this little conundrum.
In addition to the recent series of blog posts that I did on restoring an in-cannel gouge, I also made a video of the process.
In this video, I discuss reference faces and edges, combination planes, dado planes, and rabbet planes.
In this video, I discuss making the fox wedged (or blind wedged) mortise & tenon.
In this video, I discuss miter shooting boards, including the traditional donkey’s ear. I also discuss making a miter joint with spline by hand.
In this video, I discuss using a frame saw for resawing, and planing the end grain of thick hardwood pieces.
In this video, I discuss drawboring a mortise & tenon, work holding for planing small stock, and hand sawing and planing veneer.
In this video I answer questions like “How flat is flat enough?”, “What angle do you hone a mortise chisel?”, and I talk about options for saw filing vises.
The more you use your brace and bit in different situations, and at different angles, the better you will get at boring straight by eye. Until you get there, here are a couple of aids you can use that will help you along as you practice.