For the medium-level saw, I can find Pax brand saws made by Thomas & Flinn Co in Sheffield, UK. But that’s about it for online retailers. These saws seem to be fairly good quality. I’m wondering if these are like the one described in the video that needed sharpening. From what I can tell online, the Pax saws look slightly fancier than the one in this video. (But then again, maybe the one in the video is a Pax saw, too.) Not sure if there’s anything else to look for in this range.
I also wouldn’t know where to look for higher-end hand-made saws. Any company recommendations, or places where these companies would advertise (like magazines or websites)? I wouldn’t go that route to begin with, but it’s nice to have dreams.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
The saw in the video was a Lynx label. The Pax saws are made by the exact same company as the Lynx saw that I showed in the video (both made by Thomas Flinn & Co). They are the same steel, same tooth configurations and sharpening, just a different handle and hardware. They will need sharpening to work well just as the Lynx saw that I showed in the video did. The Pax saws are available at most of the woodworking retailers like Lee Valley, Woodcraft, Rockler, Highland, just to name a few. The slightly less expensive (at the time the video was made) Lynx saws (again, same steel and sharpening, just a different handle) are available from Amazon, or directly from the manufacturer https://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/product-category/shop-by-brand/lynx-saws/.
Admittedly, there aren’t a lot of options in this price range for full sized hand saws. If my budget was in the $150 range for a hand saw, I’d probably look on Ebay for an old saw that had been restored and sharpened by someone that knows what they are doing. These days there are a lot of them being offered for sale on Ebay. Just read the reviews of the seller and look for good detailed photos. The good sharpeners will have a lot of good reviews and really good detailed photos of the saw and the teeth.
For joinery saws in the mid-price range, in addition to the Lynx/Pax/Crown saws (which will all need sharpening), I’d consider the Veritas saws, made and sold by Lee Valley Tools. These are a mid-priced saw but a fine performer that won’t need to be sharpened upon arrival. Most good Japanese saws fall into the $60-125 range as well but these will have replaceable (not resharpenable) blades.
At the higher-end hand-made level you’re looking at companies like Bad Axe Saws. They set the standard these days by which all other western style hand saws are made. Lie-Nielsen saws are very good as well but they seem to be having supply issues of late. Skelton in the UK is a highly rated saw but I haven’t used one. Gramercy saws (the house brand of Tools for Working Wood) are also really nice saws that I have used and would also recommend.
Thanks for the helpful tips! It clears up a lot of things and gives me plenty to consider.
I won’t rule out buying a new saw that needs sharpening and then sharpening it. I sense it’s not as much saw for my money doing it that way, but then again, sharpening is free if I do it myself, and it could take some of the guesswork out of the equation. (I’ll see how I feel after learning about sharpening in your next section!) But I will also see what it’s like shopping for nicely sharpened vintage ones.
If you think about it like a hand plane blade or chisel, which also need sharpening when they’re brand new, then it doesn’t seem like such a difficult concept to swallow. The sharpening is easy when the teeth are already spaced and shaped properly. No more difficult than honing a plane iron or chisel that is fresh from the factory. It’s the dog meat teeth of old abused saws that are difficult and frustrating. As I note in one of the sharpening videos, I’d suggest buying a $10 backsaw from the home center (which will also need sharpening) and practicing on that. It’s teeth will also be properly shaped and spaced, but not sharp. For $10, you won’t feel so bad if the first attempt isn’t perfect.
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For the medium-level saw, I can find Pax brand saws made by Thomas & Flinn Co in Sheffield, UK. But that’s about it for online retailers. These saws seem to be fairly good quality. I’m wondering if these are like the one described in the video that needed sharpening. From what I can tell online, the Pax saws look slightly fancier than the one in this video. (But then again, maybe the one in the video is a Pax saw, too.) Not sure if there’s anything else to look for in this range.
I also wouldn’t know where to look for higher-end hand-made saws. Any company recommendations, or places where these companies would advertise (like magazines or websites)? I wouldn’t go that route to begin with, but it’s nice to have dreams.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
The saw in the video was a Lynx label. The Pax saws are made by the exact same company as the Lynx saw that I showed in the video (both made by Thomas Flinn & Co). They are the same steel, same tooth configurations and sharpening, just a different handle and hardware. They will need sharpening to work well just as the Lynx saw that I showed in the video did. The Pax saws are available at most of the woodworking retailers like Lee Valley, Woodcraft, Rockler, Highland, just to name a few. The slightly less expensive (at the time the video was made) Lynx saws (again, same steel and sharpening, just a different handle) are available from Amazon, or directly from the manufacturer https://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/product-category/shop-by-brand/lynx-saws/.
Admittedly, there aren’t a lot of options in this price range for full sized hand saws. If my budget was in the $150 range for a hand saw, I’d probably look on Ebay for an old saw that had been restored and sharpened by someone that knows what they are doing. These days there are a lot of them being offered for sale on Ebay. Just read the reviews of the seller and look for good detailed photos. The good sharpeners will have a lot of good reviews and really good detailed photos of the saw and the teeth.
For joinery saws in the mid-price range, in addition to the Lynx/Pax/Crown saws (which will all need sharpening), I’d consider the Veritas saws, made and sold by Lee Valley Tools. These are a mid-priced saw but a fine performer that won’t need to be sharpened upon arrival. Most good Japanese saws fall into the $60-125 range as well but these will have replaceable (not resharpenable) blades.
At the higher-end hand-made level you’re looking at companies like Bad Axe Saws. They set the standard these days by which all other western style hand saws are made. Lie-Nielsen saws are very good as well but they seem to be having supply issues of late. Skelton in the UK is a highly rated saw but I haven’t used one. Gramercy saws (the house brand of Tools for Working Wood) are also really nice saws that I have used and would also recommend.
Thanks for the helpful tips! It clears up a lot of things and gives me plenty to consider.
I won’t rule out buying a new saw that needs sharpening and then sharpening it. I sense it’s not as much saw for my money doing it that way, but then again, sharpening is free if I do it myself, and it could take some of the guesswork out of the equation. (I’ll see how I feel after learning about sharpening in your next section!) But I will also see what it’s like shopping for nicely sharpened vintage ones.
If you think about it like a hand plane blade or chisel, which also need sharpening when they’re brand new, then it doesn’t seem like such a difficult concept to swallow. The sharpening is easy when the teeth are already spaced and shaped properly. No more difficult than honing a plane iron or chisel that is fresh from the factory. It’s the dog meat teeth of old abused saws that are difficult and frustrating. As I note in one of the sharpening videos, I’d suggest buying a $10 backsaw from the home center (which will also need sharpening) and practicing on that. It’s teeth will also be properly shaped and spaced, but not sharp. For $10, you won’t feel so bad if the first attempt isn’t perfect.