Shop Tour 2020
I’ve received a lot of requests for a tour of my new shop space over the last couple of years. I’ve finally gotten around to putting one together, so in today’s video, I take you on a tour of the new space.
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Regarding the hide glue: I would love to hear something about the various grades of glue (TI tink there are about 6 grades, based on molecular weight) and how this affects open time and particular use for the various grades. Also something about moderating open times for the hide glue. Use of salts or urea to lengthen the open time, or even pro[poprtion of water?. I get my glue from Bjorn Hide Glues (https://bjornhideglue.com) who has a great selection.
Thanks for the suggestion Willard! Though I’m not sure I’m the right person to address those questions. While I have used hot hide glue for about 20 years now, I’m not necessarily a hide glue scholar. In fact, based on your question/comment alone, I’d say that you are likely much more qualified than me to answer those questions as you’ve likely done more research into it than I have.
I have made liquid hide glue using salt, a la Don Williams’ method – 1 part salt, 2 parts glue granules, 3 parts water. I’ve not used urea personally, but I’ve heard enough anecdotal evidence of its use that I don’t doubt it works (I think Patrick Edwards uses urea to make Old Brown Glue). As for gram strengths, I’ve only ever used 192 and 251 as they’re all I’ve ever needed for the work that I do. I’ve also never added any of the ingredients purported to make the glue water resistant.
My late friend Stephen Shepherd did a lot of experimentation with hide glue and wrote a book about it that discusses a lot of these things. I’ve never done any of the experimenting myself other than using it hot for general woodworking and hammer veneering, reversing it several times as a result of a mistake during glue up, or making my own liquid hide glue as noted above.
Like to hear more about the roubo workbench!